Consumers’Guidelines to ESPs

As a consumer, you realize that unexpected automotive repairs can have a significant impact on your budget. With high fuel costs, more complex vehicles and economic uncertainty, you want to be prepared to face situations in a proactive rather than reactive manner Protecting your automotive investment is important because mechanical repairs can be costly. To curb the impact of unexpected vehicle repairs, you may be considering purchasing an extended service plan (ESP) for your vehicle. An ESP acts as a sort of health insurance plan for your vehicle, which can help provide protection and peace of mind after the original vehicle warranty has expired.

Before making a decision, you need to do some homework. A good place to start is to understand the difference between a warranty and an extended warranty. Generally, a warranty is included in the price of a product. For example, when you purchase a new vehicle, you receive the manufacturer’s warranty with the vehicle. An extended warranty, called an extended service plan (ESP), is considered a service contract because it generally entails an extra cost, is sold separately and can be purchased at any time. ESPs go into effect when a manufacturer’s warranty expires. There are numerous ESP companies, and it’s important that you select the one that is right for you and your vehicle. While you’re looking for the right ESP, it’s a good idea to think about where you will take your car when it needs service or repair. Just as important as selecting the right ESP is selecting the right repair facility. If you do not already have a relationship with a local repair facility, it may be beneficial for you to check out some shops in your area.

The Automotive Service Association (ASA) representsthousands of independent automotive repair professionals S nationwide who agree to follow ASA’s Code of Ethics. ASA’s Code of Ethics is the automotive service industry’s standard for professional business practices, and it was created with consumers in mind. Motorists can identify ASA members by their red, white and blue ASA sign. Members may also be found by using ASA’s popular online shop locator available at www.ASAshop.org. This convenient tool includes maps and directions, and motorists may search for ASA locations using ZIP code, city, state, shop name, shop type or any combination of these options. Motorists may also call (800) ASA-SHOP, ext.295, to find the nearest ASA shop.

As you begin to research your options, it may be helpful to talk with the professionals at your repair shop about purchasing an ESP. Let them know which ones you are considering. They may be able to make some recommendations about which one to choose based on their experiences with different companies, and they may have some suggestions about the type of coverage that would be best for your vehicle.

The following Frequently Asked Questions will provide additional information to help you choose the right ESP
for your vehicle.

How do I determine whether my vehicle is already under warranty? Normally, the warranty expires when the vehicle has reached the mileage and/or time limits given in the original purchase agreement; however, some emission control system components have a longer warranty due to federal mandates. If you’re purchasing a pre-owned vehicle, be sure to ask about warranty coverage. On some late-model used vehicles — depending on mileage and age — the original factory warranty may still be in effect. Some manufacturers also offer “certified used” programs that extend original factory warranty terms on pre-owned vehicles. It is important that you know about the warranty coverage on your vehicle. You can refer to your owner’s manual for complete information, and if you still have questions, take your owner’s manual and vehicle to your repair shop.

When should I purchase an extended warranty? You do have a choice about when you purchase coverage, but the cost of the coverage increases as the vehicle ages and accrues mileage. Basically, you’re purchasing tomorrow’s coverage at today’s rate, and if your vehicle is newer, you’ll usually be offered a lower price and longer term than if you wait. If the manufacturer’s warranty for your vehicle has expired, you should be able to obtain extended coverage. Typically, the vehicle must be less than 10 years old with less than 100,000 miles on the odometer. You also may choose to buy an ESP near the end of your original coverage, before it expires. Whatever plan you purchase, be sure you know when the coverage begins and ends.

Will an inspection be required if my vehicle is out of warranty? Some ESP providers may require that an independent inspection of your vehicle be conducted before coverage is initiated. This inspection protects both the consumer and the warranty company and helps keep coverage costs down. There may be an additional charge for this inspection. The inspection process is designed to protect you from having a claim denied due to a pre-existing condition. A high percentage of the claims that are denied cite pre-existing conditions as the reason.

What types of coverage are available? • A bumper-to-bumper plan is usually the most comprehensive plan. It provides a list of the parts and/or components of your vehicle that are not covered under the policy. Keep in mind that if your ESP does not cover diagnostic fees, you will be responsible for them. Only the manufacturer can offer true bumper-to-bumper coverage, which covers every electrical and mechanical part on your car, including cosmetics, vinyl, leather, upholstery, rust, paint, paint oxidation, corrosion, emissions and the exhaust system.

• A stated or “named” component plan covers most of the major parts and components on your vehicle, and lists all parts and/or components that are covered.

• A powertrain extended plan covers a vehicle’s main powertrain components, which typically include all of the internally lubricated parts of the engine, transmission, drive axle assembly (front or rear) and transaxle assembly. Other items such as seals and gaskets may sometimes be covered at an additional cost. A powertrain policy provides coverage for the expensive major repairs. This type of plan is usually an excellent value if you have an older, high mileage vehicle or if you only want coverage for major repairs.

• A wrap is a special type of ESP designed for newer vehicles with extended powertrain coverage. These policies cover non powertrain items, such as A/C and electrical components.

• Under wear-and-tear coverage, a part or component does not have to break for it to be covered. The part or component is covered when it has worn beyond the manufacturer’s factorty tolerances allowed for a particular vehicle for the mileage at which the problem occurred. For example, if a ball joint breaks and the vehicle is towed to the repair shop the plan would pay for towing, parts and labor on the repair. If the other ball joint is diagnosed as out of tolerance but not broken, its replacement would also be covered. With wear-and-tear coverage, the out-of-tolerance item can be replaced at the same time as the broken item at no charge (other than the deductible, if applicable). Normal maintenance parts not covered under a wear-and-tear option include brake pads, shoes, drums or rotors, and manual clutches.

• Breakdown coverage is extended only to parts that break. It does not cover parts that are worn.

What about deductibles, diagnostic fees and parts? Before signing on the dotted line, be sure you fully understand the policy’s deductibles. Some deductibles are per visit, and some are per covered item. Customers may be responsible for multiple deductibles. Often customers will have to authorize diagnostic fees up front. If a discovered defect is a covered repair, then the ESP may cover the diagnostic fees, but if the defect is not covered or if the ESP doesn’t cover diagnostic time, the customer will be responsible for the diagnostic fees. In addition to deductible’s, ’diagnostic fees and varying repair coverage, there are potential costs for shop supplies, fluid and gaskets, as coverage of these items also varies. Your repair shop will talk to an ESP administrator about the parts that will be needed to repair your vehicle. There may be situations when the ESP administrator will require the shop to use certain types of parts in the repair of your vehicle. The administrator has the option to choose among new original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, aftermarket parts, rebuilt/remanufactured parts or salvage parts. The administrator’s goal is to repair your vehicle and get through the period covered by the ESP without incurring any further cost for the same repair. For example, on a high-mileage vehicle, a used part may be recommended, but for a low-mileage vehicle, the administrator may elect to upgrade to a lifetime warranty part to avoid future cost. You may decide you want to follow the recommendation of your repair technician and upgrade to a better part than the administrator has authorized. You can do this, but be aware that any differences in the priceof parts are your responsibility.  Most warranties have provisions for overheating that are addressed in the contract. Be sure you fully understand that provision. For example, if overheating occurred due to radiator problems, you may be responsible for the repair bill.

How does the ESP administrator determine appropriate prices for parts and labor rates? Most ESP companies will not accept time estimates based on a technician’s personal experience, and sometimes they won’t even accept the manufacturer’s labor guides, so most repair facilities estimate labor times using a third-party information provider. Another consideration is whether your shop’s labor rates are higher than the ESP will pay. Be prepared to pay any differences in rates that are not covered by your policy.

What if I change my mind after purchasingan ESP? Most ESPs can be cancelled at any time, even if you have financed it as part of your monthly car payment. It is not advisable to buy an ESP that does not let you cancel and receive a refund. Most providers will refund your money provided that you have not made a claim and the written request and the contract are received back within 30 days of the purchase date of the contract. There may be a fee to cancel the policy.

What type of vehicle maintenance does anESP require? Sometimes the maintenance required by an ESP may be different than what is recommended by the vehicle owner’s manual. Typically, the ESP does not override the manufacturer’s recommendations with lower maintenance standards. Usually, the ESP will require fewer miles for maintenance services than the mileage specified by the manufacturer. For example, the ESP may require an oil change every 3,000 miles, even if the owner’s manual specifies every 5,000 miles. Abiding by the ESP service recommendations could help prevent the denial of a claim later. Be sure to save the receipts for all maintenance performed. Failure to have proper documentation could result in the termination of your policy.

Where can I take my vehicle for repairs?
A plan that dictates where to take your vehicle for service and/or repair may not be in your best interest; you want the
freedom to choose where to take your vehicle. Look for a plan that lets you choose the dealership, national chain or local repair facility that you want to use. When looking for a repair facility, ask if the facility’s technicians are ASE certified. The non-profit group National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifies the technical competence of individual technicians by offering voluntary testing. For more information, visit the ASE Web site at www.ase.com. Review the policy and make sure you understand your coverage, including towing and car rental benefits. Keep a copy of your policy and the phone number and address of your local repair facility in your vehicle for easy access and quick reference.

How does the claim process work? Generally it works like this: When your vehicle needs service or repair, take it or have it towed to your local ASA member shop or other reputable repair facility and present a copy of your ESP to the service writer/manager. After reviewing the ESP contract, the service writer may contact the ESP administrator to verify coverage and expiration dates and get authorization to perform the repair. The ESP administrator is responsible for determining if the reported problem is covered by the specific agreement purchased; authorizing (via credit card payment to the service repair facility; scheduling inspections; handling contract transfers to new owners; and making cancellations, should the vehicle be traded or stolen. On major claims, the administrator may send out an inspector to inspect your vehicle. Sometimes this can lengthen repair time. Be aware that most providers will not pay for diagnosis, shop supplies or sales tax. Most ESPs will pay your claim directly to the repair facility via credit card with no paperwork or billing hassles for you. Beware of companies that require you to handle the claims process yourself.

What happens if I sell or trade in my vehicle? Most extended service plans are transferable to the new owner when you sell your vehicle, but they may require a small fee for handling the paperwork. Beware of a policy that is not transferable.

• Check the status of the company with your local Better Business

Bureau (BBB). The BBB is a private, non-profitorganization that offers services to its member businesses and to consumers. The main service they provide to consumers is a rating on member businesses that reflects the number of customer complaints received (if any) and how the complaints were settled. • Investigate the financial stability of the ESP provider. Find out if the contract insurer and re-insurer have been rated by A.M. Best (www.ambest.com), Standard and Poor’s (www.standardandpoors.com) and/or Duff & Phelps (www.duffandphelps.com) insurance rating
services. This will give you some information about the provider’s ability to pay your claim. Be cautious of any company that doesn’t disclose this rating. • Shop Around. Compare coverage and price. • Read the policy before you buy.

• Understand the relationship between the cost of the premium and the amount of coverage. A low premium may not provide as much coverage as a policy with a higher premium. Be sure you don’t sacrifice necessary coverage to save money on your premium. • Check the contract to see if there is a waiting period before you can use the ESP. Some companies have waiting periods of30 days or up to 60 days. • Ask about policy renewal terms. • Avoid ESP providers that do not pay claims directly to the shop. • Confused? Get a second opinion.If you are uncertain or confused, set some time aside to review the ESP contract with your ASA repair shop before buying it. Because your repair professional is familiar with your vehicle and will be working with your ESP provider to get your vehicle repaired, his or her input should be considered before reaching a final decision.

The information contained in this document is general in nature
and in no way is intended to supersede any local and/or state regulations in
regard to automotive repair facilities, writing repair orders/estimates, or
extended warranties or service plans. This material was prepared by the Automotive Service Association® (ASA) and its Mechanical Division
Operations Committee.

Gas stations typically offer gasoline in three octane ratings, generally 87, 89 and 91.  However, higher-altitude areas may offer 85 octane, while the upper octane my include 92 or even 93 octane ratings.

But do you really know what the octane numbers mean?  They are measurements of the fuel’s anti-knock properties.  Knock-also know as detonation-is a potentially damaging condition when air and fuel ignite without the precisely timed control of the spark plug.  Higher octane numbers mean greater resistance to knock.

In a correctly tuned engine, gas with the recommended octane rating for your vehicle should not contribute to knock.  If knocking occurs, your car should be inspected, but using a higher-octane fuel may temporarily alleviate the condition.

One more thing: if your engine doesn’t knock with the lowest-octane gas, there is no reason to use the more expensive higher-octane fuel.  Use premium gas only if it is recommended by the vehicle manufacture.

Click the link for more info.     http://www.chevrolet.com/camaro-zl1-sports-car/

Here is a scenario:

A shop performs a brake job on a vehicle. The front pads and rotors are replaced. On the test drive, the vehicle had zero signs of pulsation, even after an aggressive break-in procedure. Six months and 6,000 miles later, the customer is back complaining of a pulsation in the pedal. So what has happened in 6,000 miles? Did the customer tow a boat? Drive in the Rocky Mountains? Participate is a high-speed police chase? Even if the customer answered yes to one of these events, chances are it did not cause the pulsation they are now experiencing.

When the wheels are removed, there are no visual indications the vehicles has a pulsation problem. The pads are worn evenly. The rotors look fine, with very little visible wear, corrosion or excessive heat. So what next? The technician could machine the rotors on a bench lathe and put them back on the vehicle. On the test drive, the pulsation will be gone, for at least another 6,000 miles.

The next time the customer is back with the same pulsation problem, the shop could go all out and install new pads and rotors. They could even search the repair information for TSBs related to pulsation. Surely they could not be alone! When the vehicle is given back to the customer, chances are there will not be any pulsation, at least for the next 6,000 miles.

If you were reading the above scenario and saying to yourself, what was the runout and disc thickness variation (DTV) measurement?, you are ahead of the game. If you did not think about this and wanted to know what brand of pad or rotor the technician installed, you need help.

Chances are the factitious shop in the example lost a lot of money on this brake job along with the customer’s trust. But, it did not have to happen like this.

Measuring runout and DTV would have taken 20-25 minutes during the initial brake job. Also, they could have sold the customer the services or parts to correct the problem. These preemptive diagnostics can save you from a lot of pulsation comebacks.

What Really Happened?

Let’s say the vehicle had .003 of lateral runout when measured at the outside face of the rotor. If this vehicle is riding on 205/55R16 tires, in one mile, the high-spot with .003 of runout goes past the caliper approximately 836 times. Over 6,000 miles, that spot on the rotor will go past the pads more than 5 million times! Every time this spot passes the pads, a little bit of the rotor’s material is removed. Over 5 million revolutions, enough material is removed to create a thickness variation that can be felt by the driver.

The Rotor is Not Warped

In the scenario, I never used the word warped. The words warped and warping should never be applied to brake systems.

Warping is defined in the dictionary as:

Warp: to turn or twist out of or as if out of shape; especially to twist or bend out of a plane.

In the scenario, there is no twisting or bending. There is only wear and changes in the dimensions of the rotor. Heat was not a force distorting the rotor by softening the metal. The heat used to cast the rotor is three to five times greater than the heat produced in the most aggressive braking down a mountain road. Most engineers will tell you, rotors will crack long before they are distorted by heat.

Sure, a customer can experience a pulsation or judder after higher-than-normal brake temperatures are experienced. 99% of the time it is not the fault of the rotor, but it is the pads. What has happened is the pad’s friction material has been unevenly deposited around the face of the rotor. This creates uneven braking forces as the dissimilar sections pass by the pads. This type of pulsation or judder will typical go away after a few hundred miles.

Parallelism

The main culprit of the chronic pulsation was variations in disc thickness or parallelism. The two friction surfaces of a rotor are designed to be parallel to one another within a certain specification. The allowable tolerance is known as parallelism. It is also known as the rotor’s disc thickness variation or DTV. In order for the pad to stay in contact with the rotor, the piston must extend or be pushed back into the housing as force is applied. This creates the pulsation in the pedal that is most noticeable to the driver.

Every time the low spot passes by the caliper, hydraulic pressure at the caliper drops. This produces less braking force as this area passes by the pads. This can also affect braking distances.

Runout

Runout is defined as the amount of lateral (side-to-side) movement of the rotor as it rotates 360 degrees. The specification is usually provided as TIR or Total Indicated Runout. TIR is defined as the runout measured on the vehicle or installed runout. TIR includes all factors that can influence the amount of runout. Runout can be in the hub’s flange, the rotor or it can be caused by improper lug torque.

You could also call TIR the stacked runout of the hub/rotor/wheel assembly. All of the above factors add up to give the rotor’s TIR. This brings up an important point. The average allowable TIR specification for late-model vehicles is between 001 and .003. This is the maximum allowed! Some manufacturers have specified .000 of runout.

Runout will NOT cause pedal pulsation on vehicles with floating or sliding calipers and the caliper housing is free to move and the runout is not excessive.

Under these conditions, the caliper will follow the runout. The caliper housing will move in and out in relation to the runout. This movement will not cause the caliper piston to move. This is a key point to understand. No piston movement results in no fluid movement in the hydraulic system. If there is no fluid movement, the brake pedal won’t move or pulsate. So, a key point to understand is runout generally does NOT cause pulsation. Runout causes thickness variation that leads to pulsation problems.

Solutions

The first solution to solve pulsation problems is to prevent them from happening in the first place. For every brake job, runout and DTV should be measured and documented. This includes pad slaps, machining rotors and installing new rotors.

Second, pay special attention to the mounting flange. Taking time to clean the mounting flange on the hub can remove corrosion and debris that can cause runout. Also, pay attention to lug nut torque.

Third, take time to service the caliper, slides and hardware. If a caliper cannot float or retract the piston, it can result in increased wear that could lead to DTV and pulsation. New abutment clips are being used on some new vehicles that help to push the pads back from the rotor to reduce drag and allow for less wear on the pads and rotors. Failing to renew these components as part of a brake job could reduce the life of the brake job and increase comebacks.

Fourth, using an on-the-car lathe can help to reduce runout. The main advantage of these lathes is that they are able to cut a rotor in its operating plane. This means that the rotor is machined to match the hub.

Fifth, flange runout can be corrected with tapered shims that are available to correct a runout of 0.003 inch (0.075 mm) to 0.009 inch (0.230 mm). A runout of more than 0.005 inch (0.125 mm) at the bearing flange cannot be corrected by the use of a shim. The combination of rotor and bearing flange could prevent the rotor from being turned. Checking bearing flange runout should be performed after friction surface runout. Changing the rotor position 180º on the bearing can check flange runout. If the high spot changes 180º, the rotor could be OK or ready to turn after the bearing is shimmed.

Components should be marked as you perform an inspection of the assembly. Check the bearing endplay. Mark the relation of the rotor to the bearing flange. Mark the rotor high and low runout spots on the rotor friction surface. The low spot marked as zero and the high spot as 0.XX. Mark the high and low runout spots on the bearing flange with the same method and the rotor friction surface.

Once you have collected the data, the following comparisons should be made. Compare bearing flange to rotor runout position. If the shim cannot correct the runout, the bearing should be replaced. Check the rotor thickness. The minimum dimension should be stamped or cast into the rotor. There has to be enough thickness to cover the runout without going below the minimum thickness.

Pulsation comebacks cost technicians and shops parts and lost labor. Rolling the dice every brake job by not eliminating runout or trusting in new rotors will cost you more than the time spent measuring with a dial gauge and micrometer.

With fall here and cold mornings just around the corner here are a few things to check to make sure your car or truck is ready for that first freeze.

Wipers & Washer:  Check the operation of your wipers to make sure that they are in good shape, no streaking or noise.  Check your washer fluid.  Is it full?  Is it rated for winter use to avoid freezing?

Defroster & Heater:  Check the operation of your defroster and heater.  Does air flow from all vents as it should? Is it hot?  Don’t forget to check your cabin air filter.  A dirty cabin air filter can severly reduce the amount of air flowing from you defroster vents, as well as the heater, causing poor performance.  Remove leaves and debris from the air intake area usually located at the base of the windshield.

Anti-Freeze & Battery:  Have the freeze level and condition of your coolant/anit-freeze checked to avoid having a frozen engine.  Have the condition of your battery checked, and the terminals cleaned if needed. 

Tires:  How is the tread depth?  Good traction on ice, snow  or wet roads all depends on having good tires!

Hunter’s Special:

Change oil and filter, lube the chassis, check all fluid levels and top off as required.  Inspect belts, hoses, brakes, cooling system, tires and suspension.  We will give you a written report on the condition of your vehicle.  Includes up to 5 quarts of 5w30 oil.

Limited time offer, call for details today!

You may take your oil filter for granted, but this small, inexpensive part of your vehicle’s lubrication system plays a vital role in protecting the engine from premature wear. Each moving part in the engine and the cylinder walls requires clean oil for proper lubrication and lasting life. The oil filter cleans the oil as it passes through the filter element or filtering media. This prevents abrasive contaminants in the engine lubrication system from damaging engine parts.

The better you understand your engine’s lubrication system, the more you’ll appreciate the vital role your oil filter plays. When the engine is running, oil enters the oil pump through a screened intake. The screened intake — or oil pick-up — is located in the crankcase near the bottom surface of the oil pan. The oil is drawn through the screen intake and forced by the oil pump through the oil filter.

Oil from the main gallery is also fed through vertical passages to the crankshaft main bearings and through the crankshaft to the rod bearings. Oil thrown from the crankshaft, or sprayed from the connecting rods, lubricates the pistons and cylinder walls.

In a typical full-flow type oil filter, the oil flows into an inlet passage and then through the filtering element. After flowing through the filter element, the filtered or “clean” oil passes directly to the main oil gallery. In a partial-flow type filter, the oil returns directly to the oil pan.

Oil from the main gallery lubricates the camshaft and the camshaft bearings (and feeds hydraulic valve lifters if used in the engine). On non-overhead cam engines, oil is metered through the valve lifter to a hollow push rod that carries oil for the lubrication of the push rod pivot point, rocker arm pivots and valve guide.

Oil Filter Media

The media is the filtering material in the oil filter element. It essentially determines the efficiency, performance and useful life of the oil filter.

There are two basic types of filter media: the “paper” media and the “depth” type media. The primary features of the filter elements are:

Particle size retention (filtration efficiency)
Particle size retention is the measure of the degree to which the filter can retain particles of various sizes. Wix(brand) has developed optimum particle size retention quality in filter media by extensive engine wear tests including exhaustive testing of filters used in racing, and sophisticated laboratory tests. Wix media in the automotive full-flow oil filter is able to trap and hold essentially all the contaminant particles larger than 25 microns. (A human hair measures approximately 70 microns in diameter. An object that is 1 micron in size is .000039 inches in diameter.) Our filters also capture a high percentage of even smaller particles.

Dirt-holding capacity
Dirt-holding capacity is the amount of contaminant that can be removed and held by the filter until the filter ceases to function. The capacity of Wix filters is significantly larger than the minimum requirements to efficiently filter all the oil during the oil and filter change periods as specified by vehicle manufacturers.

Resistance to oil flow
WIX full-flow oil filters for automotive applications use arch-pleated, prescription-blended media. When new, the media with a maximized number of pleats has less than 2 psi pressure drop when filtering oil at a rate of 4 g.p.m. at normal operating temperature. This low initial restriction to oil flow protects the vital engine parts more effectively.

Here at Greg’s Garage we use Wix & Wix Pro Tec brand filters to maintain your engine.  Filter quality, as well as oil quality, is one of the things that affect the cost of an oil change.  For more information on oil filters click on the link below.

http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/gff_oilfilters.html

Just as filters improve the efficiency of your furnace, engine and cabin air filters do the same thing for you car.  The engine air filter blocks particles that can harm the combustion chamber.  The cabin air filter helps keep common airborne particles out of your vehicle.

Cabin Air Filters

About 80 percent of the cars and trucks sold today have at least one cabin air filter.  Why?  Because tests have shown the air inside your vehicle may contain a higher concentration of contaminants than the air outside.  Cabin air filters help prevent molds, pollen, allergens, smoke, fumes and odors from entering your vehicle.  They can also help reduce wear on your vehicle’s hearting, ventilation and air-conditioning system.  Consult your owner’s manual for recommended engine and cabin filter replacement intervals.  Also keep in mind that with Nevada’s dusty environment, filters may require more frequent replacement. 

Engine Air Filters

Engine air filters use filter element technology to block airborne dust and dirt – including particles as small as a grain of salt – that can harm expensive internal engine parts such as the cylinders and pistons.  According to the Environmental Protection Agency, replacing a clogged air filter on a fuel-injected engine can increase acceleration by up to 11 percent.

Should I let my vehicle warm up in cold weather?

      To most drivers in cold climates, the ritual of letting their cars warm up a few minutes before driving is a time-honored one.  Although there’s the comfort factor of getting into a warm vehicle for that drive to work, the practice has come under scrutiny in recent years for its environmental impact.  That’s because the advent of electronically controlled fuel injection has virtually eliminated the reasons drivers did it in decades past, so a prolonged warm-up basically wastes gas.  However that’s not to say there aren’t valid reasons for a brief warm-up in very cold weather – the most important being the circulation of oil throughout the engine.  In temperatures below freezing, oil can thicken up and flow more slowly, so it’s important the engine is warmed up sufficiently to ensure normal oil circulation – and it doesn’t take long.  A good rule of thumb is the freezing mark:  If it’s above freezing, no warm-up is needed.  If its below freezing, a minute or two is fine.  Beyond that, you’re just wasting gas.

Whats Involved?

Many people have been led to believe that there is a sophisticated piece of equipment that can be connected to their vehicle that will tell the person operating it what is wrong with the vehicle.  Unfortunately such a piece of equipment doesn’t exist and probably never will.  Diagnosing a modern day automobile is not unlike diagnosing anything else.

Take for instance the medical field.  When  you go to a doctor with a symptom, let’s say a pain, the very first thing the doctor will do is interview you.  He will want to know when it hurts, where it hurts, what you may have done to injure it.  Then he will probably run some very basic tests that he can do with his five senses.  He will look at the spot where it hurts, he will feel it, he will possibly move your body through it’s normal ranges of motion to see how it feels to him and you.  Next he will use his knowledge of the human body and how it works, coupled with his previous experiences to come up with one or more hypotheses of what might be causing the symptom.  The next step involves performing more in depth diagnostic procedures to confirm or disprove his hypotheses.

This next level of diagnostics may involve such tests and equipment as x-ray machines, MRIs, EKGs, blood test, etc.  Each test may  or may not reveal the source of the problem.  This same diagnostic approach can be applied to just about any type of diagnosis, whether it be household appliances, computers or your automobile.

What you should begin to see is how important two people are.  YOU, and the technician.  The very first step of almost any diagnosis is getting as much information as possible from YOU.  The very first and important piece of information is exactly WHAT the symptom is.  This isn’t always easy to explain.  The symptom may involve how it sounds, feels, even smells.  However this is not to be confused with what you may think is causing the symptom.  Saying that if feels like the fuel filter is plugged isn’t really explaining what it is doing, and may lead the technician astray, which will result in a higher bill to you, the customer.  Saying that the vehicle chugs, or surges is much more helpful.  After all if YOU were really qualified to diagnose the problem, you probably wouldn’t be here.

The next piece of information we need to know is the circumstances around which the symptom occurs.  The ideal circumstance is a problem that is always there, however this is often no the case.  More often the problem will only happen under certain condition.  To you the customer this may seam obvious and unimportant, but it is vital.  Perhaps the problem happens to you every single day on the way to work, so you naturally assume that it happen to the technician.  However you may do things in that route that the technician may not do on his test drive.  This may involve going on the freeway, traveling up a hill or over bumps.  It may happen only the morning when cold, or only after drive for a while when hot.  If there is a specific circumstance that is involved in the symptom it is vital that the technician know this.  Without this information he may never duplicate the problem.  This will result in a much longer, or even unsuccessful diagnoses, and again a higher bill to you the customer.

The next step involves the technician.  Throughout the career of the technician he will often see the same problems over and over again.  Once he has verified the symptom that you described he may have a good idea what the problem is.  Perhaps the only test required might be simply looking at the part he suspects to be the culprit.  Also his basic knowledge of your automobile and how the different systems operate now come into play.  He will combine this with the information he gets from you to come up with a hypothesis of what is wrong with your automobile.  The final and last step may involve the use of high tech test equipment and information services.  You will notice that this is the last step, and in many cases not required if the problem is discovered in the initial process of diagnosing the problem.  So yes diagnostic equipment is important, and yes we do have just about every type required to diagnose most problems with most makes and models, but the most important thing is information from you and a qualified experienced technician.