A vehicle has the right to the proper fluids.  All Vehicles are not created equal and, as such, are built with certain fluid specifications in mind.  Several modern car makes require fluids that are engineered specifically for that brand alone, and using something in place of that can actually cause damage.  Engine oil, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Differential Fluid all vary depending on the make and model of the car or truck.  Some fluids can even vary depending on the different options on the same model and year! There is no such thing as standard.

A vehicle has the right to maintenance.  The manufactures of your vehicle built it with maintenance in mind, meaning that the lifetime of your car or truck is wholly dependent upon what you put into it.  The factory has set certain maintenance items to be performed at specific intervals throughout the vehicle’s life.  These include fluid services, tune-up parts, replacing timing components and so on.  These components are put under tremendous stress on a daily basis from normal commuter-type driving, as well as environmental factors such as heat or cold, weather, and the surface on which your vehicle is driving.  Because of this stress, these parts and fluids become worn over time and so require replacement.  When they are not replaced, your car or truck doesn’t perform as it should.  Ignoring these maintenance items for extended periods of time can cause major problems throughout the vehicle’s systems and severely shorten its life.  Many drivers eschew maintenance items, seeing them as unnecessary, or simply as a ploy by car-makers to separate unknowledgeable car-owners from their money.  This is simply not the case.  Maintenance is an integral part of your car or truck’s longevity, and the better you maintain it, the longer it will stay on the road.

A vehicle has the right to diagnostics and testing.  When you’re sick, your doctor doesn’t guess.  She doesn’t just take a cursory glance at you then write a prescription, or recommend replacing a limb.  And you wouldn’t expect that for the amount of money you pay to have the appointment.  The same goes for your car and your mechanic.  A modern vehicle has several systems, with sometimes dozens of components in those systems, all running at the same time.  When something goes wrong, it’s up to the mechanic to search among those systems to find the cause.  This takes time, expertise, and experience to do it all, let alone do well, and this is exactly what it takes to keep your vehicle running correctly.  Some customers will balk at the thought of a diagnostic charge.  But just as your doctor can’t give a diagnosis over the phone, she wants you to make an appointment; the same goes with your mechanic: to find out what’s going on with your car or truck can take testing, research and most of all, time.  Your physician expects to be paid for his time in order to make you well.  An automotive technician can only expect the same.

A vehicle has the right to quality parts.  The automotive industry is one—among others—ruled by price.  Parts stores, Corporate Chain Repair Garages, and Independent Repair Facilities are all competing for your business, and for most their biggest weapon is price.  Parts stores offer sales and rebates on package deals and repair facilities offer incredibly cheap offers for repair work. A car-owner can expect on any given day to be offered a $19.95 oil change, or $79 brake job, free check engine diagnostic, or even sizable discounts on large enough purchases.  But the responsible vehicle owner must do some work to find out what they are getting for those prices.  Is that $19.95 oil change at a garage using bulk oil in only one viscosity?  Is that the correct viscosity for your car or truck?  Is that $79 brake job offering quality brake pads, or an entry-level set?  Does it include machining or replacing the rotors?  Knowledge of these things is what makes the difference between repairing your vehicle and fixing it.  Sure a $99 brake job will fix it.  But a quality repair can and should make it as good as new (or as close to good as new as is possible).  When drivers are given an estimate at a repair facility, a common question is if the price can be lowered by getting cheaper parts.  Often times it’s doable.  However, the best repair to a vehicle is one where the parts put on it are of a quality at least comparable if not equal to those put on by the factory.  There are times and places where corners can be cut.  But parts quality should not be one of them.

A vehicle has the right to be driven responsibly.  Cars and trucks are machines, and as such they require input by an operator in order to function.  The kind of input by the operator depends on the output of the machine—and also the wear on the machine and its parts.  The more responsibly a vehicle is driven, the longer it is more likely to last.  Taking corners at high speeds, incessant slamming of brakes, constant hard acceleration all add to the wear of the vehicle and take away from its longevity.

A vehicle has the right to care by its owner/driver.  The primary driver is the person that handles a specific vehicle the most often.  This person is responsible for the regular upkeep and maintenance of their car or truck.  Simple items like checking tire pressure, having the tires rotated, oil changes every 3000 to 5000 miles (depending on oil type) and checking the fluids before long trips are all the responsibility of the driver/owner, and a schedule for these items should be made and adhered to.  A well cared for vehicle is one that takes care of its owner, so a service done for it is ultimately, a service done for oneself.

source: IATN

While most motorists associate dead automotive batteries with cold winter weather, it is actually the heat from the summer months that can wreak havoc on the vehicle’s battery.

“Extreme heat causes battery fluid to evaporate, which then damages the internal structure of the battery, causing it to fail,” said Joe Finney, SVP and president of Sears Automotive Group. “Many car batteries go on life support in the summer and actually die in the winter months,” Williams said. The average life of a battery in the northern U.S. is five years, whereas a battery in the southern U.S. may only last two years.”

It is hard to predict exactly when a battery may die, but it usually happens without warning. According to an independent survey of Sears Auto Center stores, it costs an average of $100 and over two hours of time to replace a battery after failure, which could have been prevented through proactive maintenance.

To avoid being stranded, here are some steps to avoid the cost and inconvenience of a surprise breakdown:

• Stay One-Step Ahead: Get your battery tested at your local automotive repair shop. Test batteries that are more than three years old annually.

• Be Proactive: Over 78 percent of motorists wait for a battery to fail or an incident to occur before replacing a battery.

• Stay Cool: When possible, park your car in a garage or shaded area.

• Avoid Buildup: Clean any corrosive buildup from battery terminals and cable clamps, and ensure the clamps are tight enough that they will not move.

source: Automotive Service Association

The following simple and inexpensive preventive inspections may extend the life of your vehicle, ensure safer operation and even benefit the environment.

• Even though your vehicle may still be under warranty  you are not required to return to a dealership for scheduled maintenance.  You may have the service facility of your choice maintain your vehicle and not void your warranty.
• Always refer to the manufacturer’s specifications in your vehicle owner’s manual, but a good rule of thumb is to have the oil and filter changed regularly, every 3,000 to 4,000 miles when using conventional engine oil and every 5,000 to 6,000 miles when using synthetic engine oil.
• Have all fluids inspected, including brake, power steering, transmission/transaxle, windshield washer solvent and      antifreeze/coolant. These fluids play a vital role in the safety and performance of the vehicle.
• Inspect tires and inflation once a month. Under-inflated tires can result in a loss of fuel efficiency and premature tire wear. This is the least expensive form of preventive and safety maintenance.
• Keep your engine tuned. A fouled spark plug can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30 percent.
• Have the chassis lubricated frequently. This step extends the life of the moving components of the vehicle’s suspension system.
• Inspect battery, cables and posts for corrosion and clean as needed.
• Have the lighting system inspected frequently, including headlights, turn signals, brake lights and tail lights.
• Inspect windshield wiper blades for cracks, tears and windshield contact. Replace them at least once a year or sooner if streaking begins.
• Inspect engine belts and hoses regularly. Look for wear, cracks and missing sections or segments. Worn belts and hoses can affect the safe operation of your vehicle.
• Have the air filtration system inspected frequently. The air filter should be inspected approximately every other oil change for clogging or damage.
• Inspect and replace your vehicle’s cabin air filter regularly. The cabin air filter cleans the air to the heater and A/C system and affects the air you breathe while driving your vehicle.

Always consult your vehicle owner’s manual for individual service schedules

Provided by the Automotive Service Association

• Generally you won’t know you have an electrolysis problem unless you have (a series of) unexplained leaks.

• Electrolysis will manifest itself with coolant leaks in thin walled aluminum components

Introduction What is electrolysis and why is it a problem in an automotive cooling system? Lets start by trying to understand electrolysis as it pertains to automobiles. Electrolysis is a destructive force that packs enormous potential to damage not just cooling system components, but to any aluminum engine part that has contact with the coolant. There are 2 distinct types of electrolysis, one caused mostly by improper grounding issues, called Type A, and the other primarily due to the chemistry of the coolant, called Type B. In a nutshell, if your electrolysis goes away when the battery is disconnected, you have Type A. If your electrolysis remains, you have Type B.

• Type A electrolysis involves an incomplete circuit, typically a poor ground, that uses the coolant as a return path. This type of electrolysis is generally easy to isolate by pulling fuses, unplugging harnesses, adding grounds, etc. To establish the presence of Type A electrolysis, removal of a battery cable at the post is necessary.

• Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts as a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The “electrodes”, are the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The coolant is literally infected, allowing and encouraging ion movement.

Generally you won’t know you have an electrolysis problem unless you have (a series of) unexplained leaks. However, to add yet another factor, in some parts of the country (south), electrolysis is much more prevalent than others. Electrolysis will manifest itself with unexplained coolant leaks in thin walled aluminum components, typically the heater or radiator, whichever may be more “electrically attractive” to the ion movement.

Prevention

Can Electrolysis be prevented? Absolutely! It has been said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, this could not be more true! The key to the prevention of Type B electrolysis simply means not letting the coolant wear out. When the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant wear out, were just begging for electrolysis to start. Change the coolant every 2 years. Easy as pie.

History

There are plenty of good uses for electrolysis, such as in the plating industry, where the goal is to move metal particles from one surface to another. Gold plated emblems and jewelry are successful applications of electrolysis. Of course another type of electrolysis is hair removal. Industrial applications of electrolysis include the manufacture of aluminum, and lithium, and hydrogen for hydrogen fuel cell vehicles. Other commercial applications include the manufacture of aspirin. But in an automobile cooling system, the presence electrolysis will only give us a headache! If electrolysis has always been around, why is it such a big problem now? It used to be that the difficult electrical problems consisted of shorts, opens, and draws. With high tech cars, we have to worry about reference voltage, voltage feedback’s, bus speed, thermo resistors, voltage dividers, and variable grounds. Secondary spark voltages are only increasing, A/C and D/C currents and EFI signal amplitudes can add an aggressive neutron and proton cocktail where water (coolant) conducts electricity by the movement of ions in the increasingly at-risk cooling system. In an unprotected cooling system these neutron and proton atoms magnify the strength of the electrolyte infected coolant. With more and more aluminum components under the hood and in the cooling system, longer maintenance cycles and more stray electrical energy, it’s no wonder it’s a problem.

Testing for Electrolysis

Can Electrolysis be measured? At the heart of any electrolysis discussion is it’s measurement. If it can be measured, it’s presence can be verified, which is extremely important when we are classifying, treating, and removing the electrolysis. To get started, lets take a couple of simple measurements, with a digital VOM (volt/ohm meter). 1) Simply attach the negative lead of the voltmeter to the engine block, or other known good ground, and with the positive lead, dip it in the coolant. Unless you read zero, you have electrolysis. If you measure less than .1v, your cooling system should be below the action level. If you measure .2v or above, keep reading. 2) Next, repeat the test with the positive battery cable removed. Still reading .2v or above? It’s not a loose ground your after….the voltage is coming from within, and you most likely have type B electrolysis. If your voltage dropped when battery was disconnected, you most likely have type A electrolysis. Type A may be isolated to a switched circuit, and must be isolated in much the same manner as finding a voltage draw: circuit by circuit. It may just be a loose or missing ground. It may be much more. Regardless, if you have a reading of more than .2v, (two tenths), you may have damaging electrolysis.

• Generally, a reading of hundredths (.01-.09v) is below the action level, and will not result in aluminum failure.

• Aluminum damage will begins to occur at .3v

• “When the antifreeze/coolant wears out, it acts like the acid in a battery, allowing dissimilar metals to react, and create a voltage.”

According to the dictionary, electrolysis is: 1) Chemical change, especially decomposition, that is produced in an electrolyte by an electric current. 2) An electrochemical process by which electrical energy is used to promote chemical reactions that occur at electrodes. Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts like a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The “electrodes” defined above, are the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The “electrochemical process” mentioned is the aluminum particle (ion) movement, such that leaks (thinning of wall surface) occur. When enough ions have moved, this results in a failure (leak) typically in the radiator or heater due to the thinness of the tube wall surface. A thicker surface (like an aluminum casting) is not more resistant to electrolysis, but is not as likely to leak because it is thicker. However these thicker surfaces may leak anyway if the electrolysis occurs at a gasket surface. When the coolant gets acidic will it act like an electrolyte, and set the stage is set for electrolysis to occur, and the destruction of thin aluminum components to begin. So how does coolant get acidic? Up until the mid ’90′s, the recommended service interval for coolant was 24 months. When changed at this interval, the coolant was removed before it was “spent”. It still had good color and was still protecting the metals with corrosion inhibitors. When changed, all the old coolant mix was purged, along with any small amounts of acidic build up. As a result, Type B electrolysis in the early 90′s was extremely rare. Beginning in 1996, with GM’s introduction of Dex-cool, the recommended service interval of coolant grew to 5 years. GM wasn’t the only automaker to use longer life coolants. New developments in coolant chemistry and a changing maintenance strategy has fueled these advances that are tested in laboratory conditions and on vehicle fleets. Unfortunately the successes in the laboratory have not always directly translated to a success in the field. It is not surprising that electrolysis is now a major under hood problem. Another factor is the increasingly tighter environmental restrictions on flushing and disposal of automotive flush water.

Electrolysis Removal

How do we get rid of electrolysis? Since Type B electrolysis is a chemical problem as mentioned above, the answer to ridding ourselves of this problem will be to neutralize the acid. In addition we need to remove the spent antifreeze, remove any metal particles in the deep reaches of the engine block, and “scrub” the internal surfaces of the block. Since large volumes of water and pressure are not environmentally feasible, the next best option would be to enlist the aid of modern chemistry. A chemical flush. I call it ‘flushing with a purpose‘. By exposing the inner surfaces of the engine lock to the effects of the chemical action, the deep reaches of the engine block can be cleaned. This cleaning may require extended time or repeated application dependent on the severity of the problem. Once cleaned, fresh coolant and a suppressing additive is added to the cooling system, along with a sacrificial magnesium anode pressure cap. The anode takes advantage of the fact that electrolysis will choose the metal to attack in a preferential order. Magnesium outranks aluminum on the ‘Galvanic Series’ list, thus giving desired protection to aluminum components.

Summary

Successful treatment of Type B electrolysis involves:

1) Chemical flushing

2) Specialized coolant additive

3) Sacrificial magnesium anode

Source: fordforumsonline.com

We promise to provide automotive service you can trust. This is a genuine care and concern for our customer’s vehicles. We stand behind our work with a warranty that meets or exceeds our competition. We strive to be a company that people want to grow with by offering the latest equipment and technology.

Clutch problems can occur at almost any mileage and for a wide variety of reasons. When the clutch pedal is released and the clutch disc starts to rub against the flywheel and pressure plate, it generates friction and heat. Many clutch discs have a spring-loaded center hub to provide a little “give” when the clutch is engaged.

Clutches don’t last forever, the facing on the clutch disc wears each time it is engaged. The friction material on the disc becomes warn and pressure starts to drop causing it to slip.

Clutch diagnosis may be caused from an oil leak or a bad driveshaft, motor mount, linkage, hydraulic system, flywheel, mounting or worn parts.

Clutch repair consists of removing the transmission or transaxle plus the related systems to enable access. The clutch consists of numerous moving parts and inspection is important for proper operation. The linkage controlled by either mechanical or hydraulic systems. The fulcrum to engage the throw-out bearing, clutch pressure plate and disc, flywheel plus the pilot bearing needs inspection. The pilot bearing is important because it lets the transmission freewheel while shifting gears. Proper lube, alignment and torque are required for smooth engagement.

The flywheel should always be resurfaced or replaced when a clutch is changed. Oil, dirt, grease, warpage, cracks or grooves on a flywheel can cause clutch problems.

Quality parts are very important because of load and continual use. No one likes to drive a car that chatters or vibrates!!

Check engine light explained

When your check engine light comes on do you understand what that means and what it takes to diagnose and repair?

When the check engine light comes on it means the computer has detected a malfunction in the engine/emissions controls and there is a potential for damage to your catalytic converter.  The computer stores a code related to the area of the problem, and gives the technician a starting place for diagnostics.  For example: a EGR code could be a problem with the EGR valve it’s self, or the vacuum supply or electrical signal to or from the valve.  It could even be a “driver” in the computer it’s self causing the problem.  That is why even thought the computer gives a technician a code, diagnostics are still required to see what caused the code.

Along with regular oil changes it is necessary for the extended life of your engine to change your oil filter on a regular basis also.  The rule of thumb is to change your oil filter at every oil change.  To help lower the cost of vehicle maintenance and ownership many car manufactures say the oil filter only needs to be changed at every other oil change.  Most experienced mechanics will tell you the doing so can actually end up costing you more money in the long run.  Oil filters are relatively inexpensive and the benefits of a clean oil filter are many.

Most engines today have oil filters that have been downsized from quart-sized to pint-sized to save space, cost and weight.  The smaller filter has less overall filtering capacity and while it may be fine for a 3,000 mile oil change interval the capacity may run out before a second oil change at 6,000 miles.  Even with a larger oil filter, changing it every 3,000 to 5,000 miles (depending on if you use synthetic oil) is highly recommended.

The oil filter helps prevent against abrasion and premature engine wear.  The filter’s main job is to remove dirt, debris, carbon, metal and by-products of combustion from the oil before they can cause damage to the engine.  Over time the oil becomes thicker and more polluted with these contaminants.  When the oil is changed and the old oil filter is left in, about a pint to a quart of the dirty oil remains in the filter, which then contaminates the new oil.

Today’s engines have what is called “full-flow filtration”.  The oil is picked up by the oil pump and sent through the filter before it’s circulated through the crankshaft bearings, cam bearings and valve train.  This is a efficient way of removing contaminants and making sure your engine is supplied with only filtered oil.  Over time, accumulated contaminants trapped in the filter begin to obstruct the oil flow; this can lead to lowered oil pressure and in some cases, overflow the dirty oil into the crankcase and engine, increasing engine wear.

Oil filters are relatively inexpensive and the benefits of keeping as clean oil filter in your car are many.  You will have a cleaner, cooler, well-lubricated engine, which in turn will give you optimized engine performance and better gas mileage.  your vehicle will also emit less exhaust, reducing engine by-product emissions and your engine will last longer too.

Engine cranks over-no start;

This week one of our customers had his vehicle towed in for a no start. He had just replaced the water pump and then it wouldn’t start. His Dad thought the computer was bad so they replaced it. No luck! So here we go, hook up the scan tool and found out there’s no communication. Each vehicle has numerous modules (computers) and this particular vehicle the Anti-lock Brake Module was capable of communication but not the Powertrain Control Module, Electronic Brake Control Module, Radio, Security or the Air Bag Module.  That’s when we go to the wiring schematic to find out what circuits are in common. There are a couple of splices on the serial data and somewhere there is a short to ground. We disconnected all modules in the serial data wiring until we pin pointed the problem to the Air Bag module (located under the driver’s seat). We removed the seat and carpet to find the module and it was completely corroded from moisture and heat. The technician replaced the module and wire harness, reprogrammed the module and communication came back and now the vehicle starts and runs. Today’s vehicles are very complex and require the right tools by skilled techs to repair them.  This is an example of repairs in the automotive field.

Consumers’Guidelines to ESPs

As a consumer, you realize that unexpected automotive repairs can have a significant impact on your budget. With high fuel costs, more complex vehicles and economic uncertainty, you want to be prepared to face situations in a proactive rather than reactive manner Protecting your automotive investment is important because mechanical repairs can be costly. To curb the impact of unexpected vehicle repairs, you may be considering purchasing an extended service plan (ESP) for your vehicle. An ESP acts as a sort of health insurance plan for your vehicle, which can help provide protection and peace of mind after the original vehicle warranty has expired.

Before making a decision, you need to do some homework. A good place to start is to understand the difference between a warranty and an extended warranty. Generally, a warranty is included in the price of a product. For example, when you purchase a new vehicle, you receive the manufacturer’s warranty with the vehicle. An extended warranty, called an extended service plan (ESP), is considered a service contract because it generally entails an extra cost, is sold separately and can be purchased at any time. ESPs go into effect when a manufacturer’s warranty expires. There are numerous ESP companies, and it’s important that you select the one that is right for you and your vehicle. While you’re looking for the right ESP, it’s a good idea to think about where you will take your car when it needs service or repair. Just as important as selecting the right ESP is selecting the right repair facility. If you do not already have a relationship with a local repair facility, it may be beneficial for you to check out some shops in your area.

The Automotive Service Association (ASA) representsthousands of independent automotive repair professionals S nationwide who agree to follow ASA’s Code of Ethics. ASA’s Code of Ethics is the automotive service industry’s standard for professional business practices, and it was created with consumers in mind. Motorists can identify ASA members by their red, white and blue ASA sign. Members may also be found by using ASA’s popular online shop locator available at www.ASAshop.org. This convenient tool includes maps and directions, and motorists may search for ASA locations using ZIP code, city, state, shop name, shop type or any combination of these options. Motorists may also call (800) ASA-SHOP, ext.295, to find the nearest ASA shop.

As you begin to research your options, it may be helpful to talk with the professionals at your repair shop about purchasing an ESP. Let them know which ones you are considering. They may be able to make some recommendations about which one to choose based on their experiences with different companies, and they may have some suggestions about the type of coverage that would be best for your vehicle.

The following Frequently Asked Questions will provide additional information to help you choose the right ESP
for your vehicle.

How do I determine whether my vehicle is already under warranty? Normally, the warranty expires when the vehicle has reached the mileage and/or time limits given in the original purchase agreement; however, some emission control system components have a longer warranty due to federal mandates. If you’re purchasing a pre-owned vehicle, be sure to ask about warranty coverage. On some late-model used vehicles — depending on mileage and age — the original factory warranty may still be in effect. Some manufacturers also offer “certified used” programs that extend original factory warranty terms on pre-owned vehicles. It is important that you know about the warranty coverage on your vehicle. You can refer to your owner’s manual for complete information, and if you still have questions, take your owner’s manual and vehicle to your repair shop.

When should I purchase an extended warranty? You do have a choice about when you purchase coverage, but the cost of the coverage increases as the vehicle ages and accrues mileage. Basically, you’re purchasing tomorrow’s coverage at today’s rate, and if your vehicle is newer, you’ll usually be offered a lower price and longer term than if you wait. If the manufacturer’s warranty for your vehicle has expired, you should be able to obtain extended coverage. Typically, the vehicle must be less than 10 years old with less than 100,000 miles on the odometer. You also may choose to buy an ESP near the end of your original coverage, before it expires. Whatever plan you purchase, be sure you know when the coverage begins and ends.

Will an inspection be required if my vehicle is out of warranty? Some ESP providers may require that an independent inspection of your vehicle be conducted before coverage is initiated. This inspection protects both the consumer and the warranty company and helps keep coverage costs down. There may be an additional charge for this inspection. The inspection process is designed to protect you from having a claim denied due to a pre-existing condition. A high percentage of the claims that are denied cite pre-existing conditions as the reason.

What types of coverage are available? • A bumper-to-bumper plan is usually the most comprehensive plan. It provides a list of the parts and/or components of your vehicle that are not covered under the policy. Keep in mind that if your ESP does not cover diagnostic fees, you will be responsible for them. Only the manufacturer can offer true bumper-to-bumper coverage, which covers every electrical and mechanical part on your car, including cosmetics, vinyl, leather, upholstery, rust, paint, paint oxidation, corrosion, emissions and the exhaust system.

• A stated or “named” component plan covers most of the major parts and components on your vehicle, and lists all parts and/or components that are covered.

• A powertrain extended plan covers a vehicle’s main powertrain components, which typically include all of the internally lubricated parts of the engine, transmission, drive axle assembly (front or rear) and transaxle assembly. Other items such as seals and gaskets may sometimes be covered at an additional cost. A powertrain policy provides coverage for the expensive major repairs. This type of plan is usually an excellent value if you have an older, high mileage vehicle or if you only want coverage for major repairs.

• A wrap is a special type of ESP designed for newer vehicles with extended powertrain coverage. These policies cover non powertrain items, such as A/C and electrical components.

• Under wear-and-tear coverage, a part or component does not have to break for it to be covered. The part or component is covered when it has worn beyond the manufacturer’s factorty tolerances allowed for a particular vehicle for the mileage at which the problem occurred. For example, if a ball joint breaks and the vehicle is towed to the repair shop the plan would pay for towing, parts and labor on the repair. If the other ball joint is diagnosed as out of tolerance but not broken, its replacement would also be covered. With wear-and-tear coverage, the out-of-tolerance item can be replaced at the same time as the broken item at no charge (other than the deductible, if applicable). Normal maintenance parts not covered under a wear-and-tear option include brake pads, shoes, drums or rotors, and manual clutches.

• Breakdown coverage is extended only to parts that break. It does not cover parts that are worn.

What about deductibles, diagnostic fees and parts? Before signing on the dotted line, be sure you fully understand the policy’s deductibles. Some deductibles are per visit, and some are per covered item. Customers may be responsible for multiple deductibles. Often customers will have to authorize diagnostic fees up front. If a discovered defect is a covered repair, then the ESP may cover the diagnostic fees, but if the defect is not covered or if the ESP doesn’t cover diagnostic time, the customer will be responsible for the diagnostic fees. In addition to deductible’s, ’diagnostic fees and varying repair coverage, there are potential costs for shop supplies, fluid and gaskets, as coverage of these items also varies. Your repair shop will talk to an ESP administrator about the parts that will be needed to repair your vehicle. There may be situations when the ESP administrator will require the shop to use certain types of parts in the repair of your vehicle. The administrator has the option to choose among new original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, aftermarket parts, rebuilt/remanufactured parts or salvage parts. The administrator’s goal is to repair your vehicle and get through the period covered by the ESP without incurring any further cost for the same repair. For example, on a high-mileage vehicle, a used part may be recommended, but for a low-mileage vehicle, the administrator may elect to upgrade to a lifetime warranty part to avoid future cost. You may decide you want to follow the recommendation of your repair technician and upgrade to a better part than the administrator has authorized. You can do this, but be aware that any differences in the priceof parts are your responsibility.  Most warranties have provisions for overheating that are addressed in the contract. Be sure you fully understand that provision. For example, if overheating occurred due to radiator problems, you may be responsible for the repair bill.

How does the ESP administrator determine appropriate prices for parts and labor rates? Most ESP companies will not accept time estimates based on a technician’s personal experience, and sometimes they won’t even accept the manufacturer’s labor guides, so most repair facilities estimate labor times using a third-party information provider. Another consideration is whether your shop’s labor rates are higher than the ESP will pay. Be prepared to pay any differences in rates that are not covered by your policy.

What if I change my mind after purchasingan ESP? Most ESPs can be cancelled at any time, even if you have financed it as part of your monthly car payment. It is not advisable to buy an ESP that does not let you cancel and receive a refund. Most providers will refund your money provided that you have not made a claim and the written request and the contract are received back within 30 days of the purchase date of the contract. There may be a fee to cancel the policy.

What type of vehicle maintenance does anESP require? Sometimes the maintenance required by an ESP may be different than what is recommended by the vehicle owner’s manual. Typically, the ESP does not override the manufacturer’s recommendations with lower maintenance standards. Usually, the ESP will require fewer miles for maintenance services than the mileage specified by the manufacturer. For example, the ESP may require an oil change every 3,000 miles, even if the owner’s manual specifies every 5,000 miles. Abiding by the ESP service recommendations could help prevent the denial of a claim later. Be sure to save the receipts for all maintenance performed. Failure to have proper documentation could result in the termination of your policy.

Where can I take my vehicle for repairs?
A plan that dictates where to take your vehicle for service and/or repair may not be in your best interest; you want the
freedom to choose where to take your vehicle. Look for a plan that lets you choose the dealership, national chain or local repair facility that you want to use. When looking for a repair facility, ask if the facility’s technicians are ASE certified. The non-profit group National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifies the technical competence of individual technicians by offering voluntary testing. For more information, visit the ASE Web site at www.ase.com. Review the policy and make sure you understand your coverage, including towing and car rental benefits. Keep a copy of your policy and the phone number and address of your local repair facility in your vehicle for easy access and quick reference.

How does the claim process work? Generally it works like this: When your vehicle needs service or repair, take it or have it towed to your local ASA member shop or other reputable repair facility and present a copy of your ESP to the service writer/manager. After reviewing the ESP contract, the service writer may contact the ESP administrator to verify coverage and expiration dates and get authorization to perform the repair. The ESP administrator is responsible for determining if the reported problem is covered by the specific agreement purchased; authorizing (via credit card payment to the service repair facility; scheduling inspections; handling contract transfers to new owners; and making cancellations, should the vehicle be traded or stolen. On major claims, the administrator may send out an inspector to inspect your vehicle. Sometimes this can lengthen repair time. Be aware that most providers will not pay for diagnosis, shop supplies or sales tax. Most ESPs will pay your claim directly to the repair facility via credit card with no paperwork or billing hassles for you. Beware of companies that require you to handle the claims process yourself.

What happens if I sell or trade in my vehicle? Most extended service plans are transferable to the new owner when you sell your vehicle, but they may require a small fee for handling the paperwork. Beware of a policy that is not transferable.

• Check the status of the company with your local Better Business

Bureau (BBB). The BBB is a private, non-profitorganization that offers services to its member businesses and to consumers. The main service they provide to consumers is a rating on member businesses that reflects the number of customer complaints received (if any) and how the complaints were settled. • Investigate the financial stability of the ESP provider. Find out if the contract insurer and re-insurer have been rated by A.M. Best (www.ambest.com), Standard and Poor’s (www.standardandpoors.com) and/or Duff & Phelps (www.duffandphelps.com) insurance rating
services. This will give you some information about the provider’s ability to pay your claim. Be cautious of any company that doesn’t disclose this rating. • Shop Around. Compare coverage and price. • Read the policy before you buy.

• Understand the relationship between the cost of the premium and the amount of coverage. A low premium may not provide as much coverage as a policy with a higher premium. Be sure you don’t sacrifice necessary coverage to save money on your premium. • Check the contract to see if there is a waiting period before you can use the ESP. Some companies have waiting periods of30 days or up to 60 days. • Ask about policy renewal terms. • Avoid ESP providers that do not pay claims directly to the shop. • Confused? Get a second opinion.If you are uncertain or confused, set some time aside to review the ESP contract with your ASA repair shop before buying it. Because your repair professional is familiar with your vehicle and will be working with your ESP provider to get your vehicle repaired, his or her input should be considered before reaching a final decision.

The information contained in this document is general in nature
and in no way is intended to supersede any local and/or state regulations in
regard to automotive repair facilities, writing repair orders/estimates, or
extended warranties or service plans. This material was prepared by the Automotive Service Association® (ASA) and its Mechanical Division
Operations Committee.